It was a rainy Saturday. Since it was pouring, my expectation was that Ran and I would just stay at home. It was wrong of me to assume.

Sakay tayo ng ferry sa Pasig.

Those were the words I heard that rainy Saturday morning. Around after lunchtime, we were already braving the drenched streets on our way to the ferry terminal.

The Pasig River Ferry Service is a free ferry sponsored by the government for those who would want an alternative way of moving across Metro Manila, avoiding the notorious heavy traffic flow of major roads and thoroughfares. Ferry services on the Pasig River has been in existence even before the 1900s, but the predecessor to its current form was inaugurated in 2007. As of writing, the ferry has multiple stations along the span of four cities in Metro Manila, having terminal stations in Escolta in Manila on the northwestern end and in Pinagbuhatan in Pasig on the eastern portion.

We arrived at the Guadalupe Station at around 01:40 PM. We then settled in the waiting area of the terminal. The area was comfortable, way far compared to the oftentimes insufferable state of land travel terminals. Just shortly after 02:00 PM, the ferry that will bring us to Escolta has arrived.

Aboard the Pasig River Ferry.

Since we boarded last, we missed the window seats in the ferry. Despite that, there were times that I would sneak my phone in the window behind me, excusing myself from the guy seated at my back. Somehow, I was still able to see whatever there was outside: river, rain and riverside establishments.

Scenes along the river.

We reached Escolta Terminal after roughly 40 minutes. From the station, we walked across Jones Bridge to get to the other side of the river and explore the Pasig River Esplanade.

Across Jones Bridge: from Escolta to the esplanade.

The Pasig River Esplanade was inaugurated in 2024 as a part of a bigger plan to rehabilitate the Pasig River system. Serving as a major thoroughfare before the existence of road networks, Pasig River was once a body of water teaming with life which was eventually considered biologically dead from 1990 onwards due to heavy water pollution. Many efforts have been exerted in an attempt to rehabilitate, revive and even resuscitate the river, and it remains a work in progress.

The esplanade in its current form stretches at a total of 1,350 meters as of writing. It starts near the Manila Post Office stretching all the way to the exterior walls of Fort Santiago. Featuring a showcase area where stores and food stalls are located, the esplanade provides an open space for relaxation in the midst of the otherwise busy nation’s capital.

From the Fort Santiago stretch of the esplanade.

We walked back the stretch of the esplanade when we’ve already reached the end, and stopped at the food stalls in the showcase area. It was still relatively early when we got there as the esplanade comes to life at night. Still, there were a few stalls already open. For some reasons, we ended up doing burger tasting. We ordered burger, fries and drink combo from Burger Ka Sa’kin and shawarma burger from Amvi Shawarma Station.

When we were done with our burger meals, we headed back to the Escolta Ferry Terminal, once again walking through the beautifully paved walkways along the unsightly polluted river.

Do not get me wrong. I get it: the Pasig River Esplanade is intended to add a touch of beauty to what would otherwise be a total waste area. It remains superficial though, at the very least, unable to nip even the tip of the problem of the Pasig River. The river, once glorious for being a means of transportation let alone being a source of life and livelihood, is way too far from its perceived revival without going to the root of the problem: human trash. The government can spend millions, even billions, in beautification projects such as the esplanade; but without any effort to address the biological death of the river system itself, all efforts will be in vain and all structures will be just that—display of vanity.

While waiting for the 05:00 PM trip of the ferry back to Guadalupe.

We made it back to the ferry terminal a little before 04:00 PM and had to wait for about an hour before the vessel arrived. We opted to be early in the terminal and wait for an hour instead of just being plainly on time for two reasons. One, it would be the last trip of the ferry line back to Guadalupe, and missing it was not an option unless we would want to take the train back home. Two, we would want to be first in line as much as possible so that we would get good seats in the boat.

Thankfully, we were able to achieve both goals.

We were back in Guadalupe a little around evening. That day could have just been spent at home, or it could have been another random trip around the metro, but the spontaneity of our trip to the Pasig River Esplanade through the river ferry service made the experience a little extra special. That, on top of having seen first hand the efforts being made to revive the might Pasig River.

Still a long way to go before Pasig River could be restored to its former glory, or at least be a little less insufferable to behold. It has started nonetheless. Hopefully for real.