We reached the town of Dingras after around 45 minutes from the view deck of Mt. Kilang. It was already 12:15 PM and the typical lunch hunger was already setting in. Thankfully, our targets when traveling are pretty straightforward: good places and good food.

We parked our car within the patio of the Church of Dingras. Much as we would want to get inside the church, it was closed as a result of the 2022 magnitude 7.0 Luzon earthquake. That was the same earthquake that caused destruction to churches in the city of Vigan and in the town of Bantay, and the ones in Abra. At any rate, the exterior of the church is not in anyway less pleasing, with the predominantly Baroque features of the facade sitting well with the laid-back atmosphere of the town center.

The facade of the church of Dingras.

The facade of the church of Dingras.

Considered as among the biggest churches in the Philippines, Dingras Church was established in 1598. The church, dedicated to St. Joseph, had suffered a lot of ordeals throughout the centuries. Earthquake, fire and even lightning had all contributed to the history of the church, which despite every mishap, remains standing as an iconic structure in the middle of the town.

The side of the church where a historical maker is installed.

The church in the town center is not the only one that speaks of the history of Dingras, as its colorful past is etched even in its lore. Legend has it that long ago, the land of Dingras was divided into two rival barangays separated by a river. The northern territory was ruled by Naslag, while the southern realm was held by Allawigan. The two leaders were bitter, long-standing enemies.

One day, Allawigan’s son, Ras, was hunting with his men when he spotted Ding, the beautiful daughter of Naslag, across the river. Captivated by her, Ras returned home to plead with his father for her hand in marriage. However, given the deep-seated tribal blood feud, a peaceful union was impossible; the only path to the marriage was through war.

A fierce battle ensued, and Ras led his warriors to a decisive victory. As the victor, Ras demanded Ding as his bride, but Naslag still refused. Enraged, Ras issued a final challenge: a duel against Naslag’s strongest warrior, with Ding as the prize. Ras emerged victorious once more. With the conflict finally settled, the two territories were unified into a single town—named Dingras in honor of the union between the valiant Ras and his wife, Ding.

After spending time taking photos by the church, Ran and I took a stroll on foot and explored the town center of Dingras. Our feet led us to a plaza dedicated to the memory of the most famous daughter of Dingras, another wife but one who made a mark in her own right, Josefa Llanes Escoda.

The monument and museum dedicated to Josefa Llanes Escoda.

Josefa Llanes Escoda is arguably the greatest gift of the town of Dingras to the country at a time when self-determination was under grave threat. Dubbed as the Florence Nightingale of the Philippines, Escoda is known for her social work in the American Red Cross and her pioneering efforts that led to the establishment of the Girl Scouts of the Philippines. Her support of underground warfare activities against the Japanese during the Second World War caught the attention of the invading power, causing her arrest and eventual death. She is believed to have been executed, buried in a possibly unmarked grave together with other Philippine revolutionaries considered dissidents by the Japanese.

Trying to feel how life could have been during llanes Escoda’s time.

We then continued our walking stroll, but since it was already past noon, it was time to grab some lunch. There was a catch though. We were running low on cash and needed to find an ATM. Walking further down the town looking for an ATM led us to another pleasant surprise, the marker of the spot where the house where Llanes Escoda was born used to stand.

The spot where Llanes Escoda was born in 1899.

We eventually found our way to an ATM. After withdrawing some cash to get us through the days ahead, we went to the food stalls across the church patio. We were in Ilocos Norte, so what could be a better meal than what Ilocos is known for? Of course, Ilocos empanada with matching miki!

The Ilocos empanada we had exceeded expectations. While we had tasted Ilocos empanada before, the on from Elijah’s Empanada was just a notch higher. Freshly made with unripe papaya, Vigan longganisa and egg nestled inside the iconic orange crusty shell, it was a delight in every bite. To complement our empanadas and to make it a complete meal, we also ordered miki noodle soup.

Empanada and miki noodle soup are typically considered as merienda, but taken together, they make a perfect partner filling enough to be considered a complete meal for lunch. That was what happened, and the experience was made better by the fact that we were having such food in the place where they are famously known.

Dingras was not in our planned itinerary. Thanks to Ran, however, we gained an unforgettable experience together in a town whose lore and history are hinged on the stories of two wives who despite being separated by realities, are united nonetheless by the timeless honor they are bestowed with. One wife existed only in the figment of the imagination, another existed at a time when there was a fragmented nation. One wife submitted to a hero, another became the hero. In the middle of them both is a town, protective of its ancestry and heritage, steadfast in keeping their names alive through quiet rituals, whispered legends, and stones worn smooth by memory.