Every province possesses a heartbeat, a singular architectural monument where the past is preserved in concrete, law, and memory. More often than not in each province, that heart is the Provincial Capitol. It stands as a stoic sentinel at the center of the capital, a building that has borne witness to the cyclical tides of peace and the harsh ruptures of history, remaining steadfast through it all. In the case of Misamis Oriental, it is a monument to a province that refused to stay broken. 

Misamis Oriental was created in 1929 following the division of the historical province of Misamis. Barely a decade into its official establishment, the young province faced severe devastation during the Second World War; yet, drawing on a community identity that stretches back long before colonization, its history is ultimately a story of pure resilience. In 1946, its provincial capitol building was rebuilt as part of the Philippine Rehabilitation Act of the United States Government. The rebuilt provincial capitol building still stands today, and after our rather relaxed trip to Halseyle Hill, it was our next destination.

The Provincial Capitol of Misamis Oriental.

Predominantly art deco in its architecture, the provincial capitol evokes a past that has molded Misamis Oriental into the province that it is today. There is a sharp elegance to its design despite its apparent age that commands a certain reverence, momentarily shielding you from the bustling energy of the modern city streets just outside its gates. Beholding the sharp angles of the exterior, the building felt like a tangible manifesto in its history. It stands as a bridge made of mortar and stone, connecting the deep, pre-colonial roots of the region to the progressive, rebuilt identity of the mid–20th century. It is a reminder that while landscapes change, the foundations of local identity remain stubbornly intact.

Surrounding the capitol building is the Vicente de Lara Park, an open space where people could spend time under the shade of the trees, either for recreation or just plain relaxation. Named after a former governor of the province, the park is a well-known destination for locals and tourists alike, especially since the park grounds serve as a popular venue for public events and festive occasions. 

It was already midday when we visited the provincial capitol, and the craving to grab something sumptuous and filling had started to kick in. We hence settled for a place where we would not run out of food to satisfy ourselves with—a seafood buffet.

BoJack’s Seafood Grill.

Located roughly around seven minutes from the provincial capitol, BoJack’s Seafood Grill offered a wide variety of seafood at the affordable price of PHP 279 per head. From shrimp to squid, then crabs and fish, cooked in different recipes, the dishes surely filled us with delectable goodness. As it turned out, we would need every ounce of that food for what would come next.

Seafood delight!

There is a distinct satisfaction in a day that balances the weight of history with the simple pleasure of a local meal. A true renegade juncture, however, always lies beyond the comfort zone. With our energy restored, we packed up and headed toward a challenge that would test exactly how much grit that seafood buffet had given us. We were trading the solid ground of the capitol for something fluid, fast, and entirely unforgiving. The mainland had given us a peaceful welcome, but the wilder, soaking-wet chapter of our journey was roaring just around the bend.