With our appetites thoroughly satisfied by the tuna feast at Villa Tuna, we hit the open road for the final, definitive stop of our Northern Mindanao expedition. To truly understand the roots of Misamis Occidental, we had to journey to where its defensive heart was first forged: Ozamiz City. There, standing guard at the narrow mouth of Panguil Bay, sits the historic Fuerte de la Concepcion y del Triunfo de la Cruz, commonly known as the Cotta Fort, and its deeply revered companion, the Birhen sa Cotta Shrine. 

If the provincial capitol in Oroquieta represents the civil soul of Misamis Occidental, the 18th-century stone citadel is its armor. Commissioned in 1756 by the Spanish Jesuit missionary Father Jose Ducos, the fort was named Fuerte de la Concepcion y del Triunfo de la Cruz to honor the Blessed Virgin Mary and the Feast of the Triumph of the Cross. The name evoked the historic 1212 Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, a triumphant legacy the Spanish forces invoked during their own naval campaigns to successfully sweep raiding pirates from the waters of Panguil Bay and the Misamis anchorage. 

Fuerte de la Concepcion y del Triunfo de la Cruz.

Our visit to the fort inevitably reminded us of our trip to Fort Pilar in Zamboanga City. Like its sister fortification at the tip of the peninsula, the Ozamiz fort was built along the seashore to guard against pirate raids, and is also dedicated to the patronage of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Restored and renovated in 2002, what was once a rigid military fortress has softened into a haven of relaxation, featuring curated landscaped gardens surrounded by centuries-old stone buttresses. 

The present-day interior of the fort.

Strikingly similar to Fort Pilar was the presence of an outdoor shrine dedicated to the Mother of God, known locally as the Birhen sa Cotta, literally, the Virgin at the Fort. The shrine was originally built to house the sacred 1756 image of the Virgin under the fort’s namesake title: Nuestra Señora de la Inmaculada Concepcion y del Triunfo de la Cruz de Migpangi. In 1876, the precious icon was transferred to the town parish, which eventually became the Cathedral of the Archdiocese of Ozamiz, leaving a stone bas-relief that was carved into the fort wall to serve as the new focal point for pilgrims. Tragedy struck in 1975 when the original statue was stolen from the cathedral, leaving a decades-long void in the local community until its recovery and return in 2017. 

The bas-relief image of Birhen sa Cotta.

Standing within that sacred space, we lit votive candles and offered our silent prayers, thanking the Almighty for the wonder that our Northern Mindanao adventure had been. It struck us then how perfectly our itinerary had been framed: when we arrived in Misamis Oriental seven days prior, our first stop was the Divine Mercy Shrine in El Salvador. Now, on our way back home, our final stop was a sanctuary dedicated to the Blessed Mother. In the end, this expedition was far more than a simple traversal of provincial borders, picturesque landscapes, and historical narratives. It was likewise a pilgrimage of faith. 

By 03:20 PM, we were leaving the Cotta Shrine behind, retracing our steps along the very same highway we had traversed just a day before. It felt far too soon for true nostalgia, yet as familiar landscapes rolled past our windows, the memories of the last seven days came rushing back in a vibrant montage: the historic landmarks of Misamis Occidental, the volcanic shores of Camiguin, the breezy highlands of Bukidnon, the living history of Lanao del Sur, and the timeless lore of Lanao del Norte; all leading back to this coastal cradle where customs and faith continue to carve out the future. Every mile of the journey had been as deeply meaningful as it was exhilarating. 

Four hours later, the lights of Laguindingan Airport welcomed us back. Our adventure had officially run its course. Exhausted, I could already feel the distant, magnetic pull of my own bed, my body deeply longing for the familiar contour of home. Yet as we queued at the departure gate, a quiet duality settled over us. We were weary and ready to rest, but we were also already plotting our next escape, carrying a restless excitement for the day we would finally return to Mindanao.