The three hours we spent rafting along the rapids of Cagayan de Oro River was followed by another three hours on the road heading to Iligan City, our next destination. We were no longer looking forward to a new activity save for some light late-night sightseeing. We were done for the day; besides, it was not as if anything could topple the whitewater experience from the top spot.

Iligan is a highly urbanized city and as such is governed independently from its geographical mother province, Lanao del Norte. There are two etymologies that are generally accepted as to where the city got its name. One is the Higaunon term ilig which means to go downstream, which makes sense given that the city is also known as the City of Majestic Waterfalls for the 39 known waterfalls within its borders. The other is the term ilijan which means defense fortress, which also makes complete sense if one would take into account the pirate attacks in the area during the ancient times.

We reached Iligan City at around 08:00 PM. Having gone straight from the river rapids to a long road journey, we were absolutely famished. Thankfully, our first stop in the city was for an authentic Mindanaoan dinner: a comforting plate of pater with a fiery side of palapa. 

There is no place more popular for serving pater and palapa than Pater Al–Kuwait located along Andres Bonifacio Ave. in Iligan City. Pater, which is commonly known as pastil  in other parts of the country, is a dish of steamed rice topped with shredded chicken, beef or fish, then wrapped in banana leaf. Palapa, on the other hand, is a hot and spicy condiment made of scallions, ginger, turmeric, hot chilis and grated coconut. Both are legendary staples of the Maranao people and are deeply woven into their culinary tradition. 

Pater Al–Kuwait and its famous pater and palapa.

Our first taste of pater partnered with palapa caused an explosion in our palates. It was simple yet savory and flavorful, fresh in its uniqueness. Partnered further with a piece of fried chicken and it was more than a complete meal. It was a delight.

With the pater dinner capping off our day, it was time for a chill late night stroll. We then headed to Paseo de Santiago, a seaside park facing Iligan Bay that was opened to the public in 2016. The paseo is a relatively new addition to the cityscape, but it has been popular ever since. It hosts a castle for accommodations and a restaurant with nightly live bands. It likewise offers activities such as kalesa rides, and is reportedly a great spot for sunset viewing. Well, there was no sunset to watch out for when we arrived in Iligan, hence we definitely skipped that part.

The castle inside the paseo evokes a distinct colonial-era charm. Interestingly, the park itself was named after a certain Santiago dela Cruz, a 16th-century explorer who allegedly discovered Iligan Bay. While academic and formal historical records from that period provide absolutely no mention of his existence, this folkloric figure still dominates the historico-cultural landscape of the city.

Another eyecatching feature of the paseo is its giant bas-relief Philippine map on the ground with a spelled out signage of the Philippines. There is also a signage for Iligan City, which when we were there had been decorated in time for Valentine’s Day. Of course, we did not allow the opportunity to pass to have our pictures taken.

The park’s most eye-catching feature is its sprawling layout, anchored by a massive bas-relief map of the Philippine archipelago rendered right onto the ground. Towering over the space is the proudly spelled-out PHILIPPINES signage, acting as a massive typographic landmark against the night sky. There also stands the ILIGAN CITY signage, which happened to be decked out in vibrant decorations just in time for Valentine’s Day when we dropped by. Naturally, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to capture a few frames against these illuminated giants. 

We took a quiet stroll across the park, absorbing the coastal air and appreciating the stillness of the late hour. The artificial lights lent a beautiful, moody aesthetic to the park’s features, even if we knew the bay would have told a completely different story had we caught it at dusk. But with no sunset left to anticipate and the midnight hour crawling closer, we finally made our way toward the exit. It was a brief, nocturnal footstop to close out a massive day, exactly the kind of breather we needed.

From the paseo, a quick three-minute drive brought us to Itqaan Residences, the accommodation arranged by our organizer friends at Aura Adventures. It was nothing fancy, but it provided the perfect, quiet haven to anchor ourselves after a wild day on the water followed by a long day on the road. We needed the rest. While that day was defined by the high-octane roar of the Cagayan River, the following one would demand a completely different kind of focus as we prepared to journey into the solemn, scarred, and deeply resilient landscape of war-torn Marawi City. One long road was behind us, but a much heavier chapter of our journey was about to unfold.