The morning started early for us on our sixth day in Mindanao. Having spent the last five days exploring the northern coast, this was the day we would finally cross boundaries, heading into the soul of the Bangsamoro Autonomous Region by way of Lanao del Sur.

The word Lanao comes from the Maranao term ranao, which means a body of water, while Maranao itself translates to people of the lake. These linguistic roots make it instantly clear that, at least historically, the life of Lanao has always revolved around the mighty lake that lent the province its name and defined its vibrant culture, traditions, and way of life.

This wasn’t our first time stepping into the Bangsamoro region. Our previous renegade journeys had already brought us to the island provinces of Tawi–Tawi, Basilan, and arguably, Sulu. Those, however, were isolated maritime worlds. This trip marked our first deep dive into the part of the Bangsamoro that lies well within the Mindanao mainland, a place with a completely different energy and history.

We kicked off our journey a little past 06:00 AM, heading straight to  Dodong’s Lechon Haus for breakfast. Yes, a lechon house. The local eatery serves an array of classic viands alongside the spit-roasted pig that has made it famous across Iligan City and neighboring Christian localities. It was a heavy, satisfying meal that prepared us well for the long road ahead. 

More than anything else, the presence of a lechon house in Lanao del Norte speaks volumes about the cultural landscape of the Lanao region as a whole. It marks a clear demographic transition: the north is predominantly Christian, while the south is overwhelmingly Muslim. This profound cultural split eventually paved the way for the formal administrative division of the old, unified Lanao province in 1959, by virtue of Republic Act No. 2228. Over the decades, the distinct identities of the two sister provinces have become even more pronounced through their modern political geography, with Lanao del Norte anchored firmly within Northern Mindanao, and Lanao del Sur serving as a cultural heartland of the Bangsamoro. 

It took almost an hour from where we had our breakfast before we finally reached the boundary arch of Lanao del Sur, our gateway to the fabled heartland of the Maranao.

The Renegade Duo at the threshold of the Bangsamoro.

We paused briefly to take photos by the welcome arch of Lanao del Sur before carrying on with our journey. For me, the feeling that washed over us was inexplicable. I was excited, of course, but knowing that our next destination would require immersing ourselves in a tragic chapter of recent history laced that excitement with a deep poignancy. It was the threshold of a profound mental shift, one of those moments where, for a little while, I knew I would feel entirely detached, as if slipping right through the seams of time and space. 

Naghihintay ang Marawi.